Mumbai's Cherished Vienna Bakery: The Story Behind Their Christmas Plum Cake

For generations, Mumbai residents have flocked to Vienna Bakery for their renowned Christmas plum cake. While the bakery offers plum cake year-round, the Christmas version has a special appeal. According to Raj, one of the owners, the Christmas cake boasts an extra hint of orange and a richer blend of spices, perfectly capturing the festive spirit. What's remarkable is that even with multiple locations across the city, many customers still prefer buying directly from the source.

Sometimes, eager customers receive cakes still warm from the oven, wrapped simply in butter paper because they're too fresh to be sealed. This dedication to freshness, and perhaps the enduring recipes, are likely key to the bakery's long-standing success under its current ownership since 1959. Despite being described as rum-flavored, the cake contains no actual rum; the flavor comes entirely from the quality of the raisins used.

Like many early 20th-century bakeries, Vienna had a modest start. While the name 'Vienna' possibly existed earlier, its current chapter began in 1959 when P K Appoo, a young man from Thrissur, Kerala, seeking opportunity in Bombay (now Mumbai), found work at a bakery of that name. As Europeans left India in the late 1950s, the owner decided to sell the business. Appoo seized the opportunity, purchasing the equipment and continuing the bakery under the same name in Bandra.

Over time, Vienna relocated from Bandra to Kandivali, and eventually settled in Vakola, its home for many years. Raj recalls that they started with simple breads and pavs, using the traditional "pheriwala" system where vendors delivered goods door-to-door by bicycle. Other items like tarts and cakes were available, primarily sold at the counter.

A significant expansion occurred when Raj's father, P A Ramakrishnan, a law graduate, joined the business in the 1970s. He introduced a catering service, focusing on Christian weddings. In those days, wedding catering mainly involved snacks like sandwiches, rolls, and cakes, with chicken lollipops eventually replacing patties. Furthermore, Vienna's signature plum cake was refined under his guidance. While a version existed previously, it was modified to prevent crumbling when sliced by adding more nuts, raisins, and spices. This updated recipe, introduced around 1975, quickly became a bestseller.

Vienna's commitment to using minimal preservatives results in a shorter shelf life of 20-22 days, contrasting sharply with the six months claimed by some commercial cakes. The price for a 400-gram sliced cake is Rs 200, while an 800-gram version costs Rs 400. A richer, unsliced 400-gram round cake is available for Rs 350.

In 1996, tragedy struck with the untimely passing of Ramakrishnan at the age of 42. His wife, Jiji Ramakrishnan, bravely took over, with their daughter, Indu Natesan, soon joining her. Together, they spearheaded a period of rapid expansion, launching 11 outlets across Mumbai in the early 2000s, including locations in Andheri and Mahim. Natesan also introduced a fresh counter that offered items like puddings and Black Forest cakes.

Raj, who studied craft baking, joined the family business in 2016. She explained their philosophy as maintaining tradition while implementing subtle improvements based on a deeper understanding of baking science. For example, they reduced the fat content in puffs by about 10% through improved layering techniques. The sisters also introduced an eggless range and expanded their selection of snacks and tea cakes. Today, Vienna's offerings include patties, rolls, pizza cutlets, sandwiches, and a variety of tea cakes.

Like most businesses, Vienna felt the impact of the pandemic, but quickly adapted. A key shift was the surge in demand for home delivery. Currently, 40-50% of Vienna's sales come through platforms like Swiggy and Zomato.

Despite increased competition from newer patisseries, Vienna retains a loyal clientele. Raj emphasizes their commitment to affordability, noting that even a small price increase can disappoint customers. This feedback is welcomed, as Vienna sees itself as a business built on relationships, dedicated to serving the community that has grown up with them.