Chiloé Island, Chile: A Land of Tides and Witchcraft Tales

Chiloé Island, located just north of Patagonia, is a place where the rapidly changing tides are deeply woven into local folklore. The island is also known for its changeable weather and intriguing tales of witches.

While visiting Chiloé, I noticed that many shops feature images of witches. I asked Alejandra Leighton, a Chilean anthropologist, about this prevalence, and she shared a story that resonated with a scene I witnessed during low tide outside my hotel in Castro.

The story goes that in the 18th century, José de Moraleda y Montero, a Spanish cartographer, challenged Chillpila, a local sorceress, to a duel. Chillpila won by causing the tide to recede so quickly that Moraleda's ship ran aground. As a reward for her victory, she received a book of sorcery. According to Alejandra, this legend was even mentioned during a famous witch trial on Chiloé in 1880.

Today, it's enchanting to observe the tides as they ebb and flow beneath the brightly colored stilt houses. While the only witches you're likely to encounter are those depicted in gift shops and books, Alejandra hinted that there might still be a few practicing their craft on the island.