British baker's critique of Mexican bread sparks social media outrage

A British baker's critical remarks concerning Mexican bread ignited a wave of outrage on social media, ultimately leading to a public apology from the baker.

Richard Hart, co-founder of the Green Rhino bakery in Mexico City and a prominent figure in international baking, made the comments during a food podcast interview that recently resurfaced online. Hart stated that Mexicans don't have much of a bread culture, and described the sandwich rolls as "white, ugly...cheap and industrially made."

His assessment quickly spread across social media platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and X, resulting in accusations of dismissiveness and disrespect towards Mexico's traditional breads.

The dispute over bread evolved into a broader national discussion regarding food identity, encompassing questions of who defines Mexican culinary traditions and the increasing influence of foreigners in Mexico City, a capital already experiencing tensions due to a rise in U.S. expatriates and tourists.

Daniela Delgado, a Mexico City university student, stated that Hart offended both the community of bakers in Mexico and nearly everyone in Mexico who enjoys bread.

Social media platforms were flooded with memes, reaction videos, and passionate defenses of Mexican bread. Users highlighted everyday staples like bolillos (crusty rolls used for tortas) and conchas (iconic sweet bread). These simple street foods often unite social groups and classes, representing a core aspect of the country's cultural identity.

Wheat bread was introduced to Mexico during the colonial period and evolved into a unique national tradition, incorporating European techniques with local tastes and ingredients. Today, small neighborhood bakeries remain vital to daily life in cities and towns, serving as social hubs and food sources.

The incident raised questions about why a foreign entrepreneur would publicly criticize a staple deeply ingrained in Mexican culture. Many viewed Hart’s remarks as reflective of frustrations concerning the disproportionate prestige given to foreign chefs and restaurateurs, as well as anxieties about gentrification in the capital.

One viral post on X warned, "Don’t mess with the bolillo."

As criticism intensified, Hart issued an apology on Instagram, acknowledging that his comments were poorly worded and disrespectful to Mexico and its people. He recognized the emotional response and admitted he did not act appropriately as a "guest."

"I made a mistake," Hart said in his statement. "I regret it deeply."

The Associated Press reached out to Green Rhino, but bakery representatives declined to comment.

Hart has previously worked at well-known bakeries in the United States and Europe and has participated in Mexico City’s growing artisanal bread scene, which largely caters to middle and upper-class customers (many of whom are foreigners) seeking sourdough loaves and European-style pastries, often at prices much higher than those of local bakeries.

While some users accepted Hart's apology, others deemed it insufficient in addressing deeper issues of cultural authority and who has the right to critique Mexican traditions. The apology did little to immediately quell the debate.

Delgado stated that anyone wanting to participate in Mexican culture by owning a restaurant or bakery must educate themselves.

Josué Martínez, a chef at the Mexican Culinary School, expressed satisfaction that the debate was occurring, as it created an opportunity for a more nuanced discussion. He noted that Mexican bread has faced domestic criticism for its industrialization and reliance on white flour and sugar. That said, the reality is a bit more complicated. he added that such conversations are different when led by Mexicans rather than by a foreign entrepreneur.

Martínez stated that it is an opportunity to learn about Mexican breadmaking and pastry culture, to take pride in it, to highlight the richness of the ingredients, and to avoid considering the "first world" as the ultimate standard.