British baker outrages Mexicans with attack on their ‘ugly’ bread
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Richard Hart, a British baker, ignited controversy in Mexico after criticizing the country's bread culture and calling bolillos 'ugly'.
A British baker has found himself in hot water after making disparaging remarks about Mexican bread. Richard Hart, who recently opened the Green Rhino bakery in Mexico City, sparked outrage with comments made on a podcast regarding the country's bread culture.
Hart's statements, aired on the PopFoodie Radio podcast in April, gained traction this month after being shared by food bloggers and commentators. He asserted that Mexico doesn't have much of a bread culture, that its wheat is heavily processed and full of additives, and that tortas are made with "ugly" and cheap, industrially produced white rolls.
The remarks drew sharp criticism from figures like pastry chef Tania Medina, who likened Hart to "the Christopher Columbus of bread" on TikTok. Medina and others felt it was inappropriate for a foreigner to denigrate the local cuisine, especially when being welcomed into the country.
Hart, who previously worked with renowned chefs Gordon Ramsay and René Redzepi, issued an apology on Instagram on Monday. He stated that he loves the people and city of Mexico, and that his words did not reflect the respect he holds for the country, where he is a guest.
Hart's situation echoes similar controversies involving British chefs who have faced backlash for altering or insulting national dishes. Examples include Jamie Oliver's addition of chorizo to paella, Mary Berry adding white wine to spaghetti bolognese, and Nigella Lawson putting cream in carbonara.
In Mexico, where food is a source of national pride, Hart's comments struck a nerve. Rodrigo Sierra, whose Instagram reaction to Hart's statements went viral, noted that Mexicans are very protective of their culture and traditions. While Sierra believes Hart's comments were not malicious, he considered them ignorant and lacking consideration for the consequences.
Sierra also addressed Hart's criticism of the bolillo, a common white roll used in Mexican cuisine. He emphasized that the bolillo is an affordable and practical bread that is widely consumed across different socioeconomic classes. He argued that dismissing it as "ugly" simply because it serves the needs of a population that cannot afford expensive bread is a narrow-minded viewpoint.
Sierra pointed out that Mexico boasts over 600 types of bread, including the pan de muerto, which holds cultural significance during Day of the Dead celebrations. He concluded that bread is deeply ingrained in Mexican culture and that judging it based on European standards is Eurocentric.